DIVING INTO ISLAND LIFE

Koh Tao, an island off the gulf of Thailand, is a small place with a huge impact and wow did it leave an impact on me.

Spending 7 nights here was busy but bliss. I really loved experiencing a sense of routine again, I didn't have to wake up and decide what I was doing each day, I had somewhere to be; eat, sleep, dive. I initially signed up for the Open Water 20 course which was 3 days, including a pool dive, theory and 4 dives. From the first dive I knew I was going to love it and wow was I hooked, I ended up completing 9 dives (one being a night dive - the bioluminescence plankton were like seeing stars underwater, mega wow!!) in 4 days to complete the Open Water 20 and Explorer 30 diving courses. Not gonna lie, at the end of these 4 days I was totally exhausted, if someone offered me a dive for free there and then I would have (politely) said where to go... As I'm sat here writing this on 25.11.22 on the bus from Khao Sok making my way towards Bangkok (a 13 hour journey), my feet are still cut to shreds and my left ear isn't quite right, you may question if it's worth it the hassle? Hell yeah. When and where can I dive next?

Although Koh Tao really is dominated by the diving scene, there are plenty of bars, amazing restaurants, shops and viewpoints to enjoy too. ChuChu's is known all around the island for their curry pizzas, I had a massaman one, simply delicious and totally worth the trek through the river flowing towards us. Literally. It had been raining that much the street was now a river flowing into the main street! There are so many viewpoints around the island which are known to be deathtraps to get to on a Scooter so a guy I met diving, Reece and I ventured via a taxi boat to Nang Yuan island, about 5/10 minutes from Koh Tao, this was at about 1525. The guy said the island closed at 1600 and he would pick us up then, instead of haggling for price, we haggled for time and agreed a 1645 pick up. Off we popped. I was so excited to be seeing something other than the ocean, and this view point looked amazing with the sun shining, the first dry day since arrived to Koh Tao. We arrived to an entry barrier (we didn't think the island would actually be policed) and were refused entry because we were too late, we offered to run up and down in 15 minutes, but nope it wasn't up for debate. Gutted. I mean we were told the island closed at 1600 but we didn't think we wouldn't get in!!! As we approached the boat we arrived on, the driver was in hysterics at us, he knew what had gone on but seemed thrilled to be back at the island having the craic with his pal so he made us wait until he was ready to leave!! He didn't charge us atleast and I did see the humor in this, he did try to tell us but we were having none of it, ah well just gotta make light of it and laugh. At this stage it was time for a beer. A leo on the beach watching the sunset until the stars came out with a group of people I met through diving was a 'this is why I'm travelling moment' it was an entirely wholesome and happy day, I hadn't even changed after diving that morning nor was I bothered.

KOH TAO PUB CRAWL!!!

These things initially make me cringe but ah it's what you make of it. We went on the night of the England world cup match turning up to about 20 people so we really did have to make the night our own. Well, by the end of it we were extremely happy (possibly influenced by the buckets upon buckets) with our feet danced off us. Starting the night off with the Queen's Cabaret was brilliant and finishing the night dancing on the tables in fishbowl, we definitely made up for only getting one night out (diving with a hangover is not a vibe so going out wasn't an option until then).

The diving culture was oozing out of me... we went for breakfast. As expected, the owner asked us if our meal was okay, to which I responsed the diving hand signal for 'Everything is good/A OK'. Lol. To my defense, my mouth was full and I had to respond in some way. The more worrying factor was that I did it without a second thought. ick. Oh and I have now acquired Havaianas which seems obligatory as backpacker, for £7 and feet full of blisters, I couldn't resist. It's hilarious when I compare my first time boarding the diving boat to my last. Honestly, just picture it. 4 boats lined up at the harbour (sometimes there are as many as 9... Seriously what) full of first time divers, crew and obviously instructors who don't bat an eyelid at the experience. Jorge, our instructor was Spanish, one of the most chilled people I have ever met. Off he goes and the 4 of us on the course stand and look at eachother with our hands full, chaos surrounding us glaring at the gaps between the boats. Coming back to reality of the urgency required we have a man shouting at us that we need to board NOW as his boat was leaving, if we miss that one we have one hell of a jump to make to the next. Wading our way through people, equipment and climbing through whatever gap made sense to make it onto the next boat carrying bags of Scuba gear really took it out of me. Safe to say I needed a minute by the time we reached our boat, I don't think I took a breath throughout that whole obstacle course. I was thinking am I really cut out for this??? In comparison to the last dive where I dandered my way through without a care or urge to rush, as I said before, it's funny how we adapt so quickly. I mean, seriously, by the end of Koh Tao I was walking about the island in my bare feet. What a lifestyle.

La Bombona Diving (LBD) introduced me to a way of life involving Scuba Diving, days spent on boats or the beach, hours in the water and essentially a cool (as in cold) life with your body never fully warming up.

This isn't quite correct in actual terms but for me, as I reflect on this amazing week and becoming a qualified diver, Scuba Diving really feels like an art, a craft that should be perfected to be completely at one with the ocean and all that lies within it. Watching a diver that has full control over their movement and buoyancy (check out the girl who did her Open Water 20 and Explorer 30 training lol) to appreciate the ocean in a personal way without interrupting the natural flow is simply beautiful. It's slow, elegant and feels so far removed from civilisation and life on land. In that moment, you're an observer, all you need to do is observe and appreciate. And of course carry out your regular safety checks!!!

People either seem to be amazed or bored by this island, but I always knew I was going to fall in love with Koh Tao. I totally understand why people extend their stay by a week, then a month, and then in the blink of an eye it has been 9 years later and this gem of an island is now their home; particularly when they receive an initial welcome like the one LBD offers, they're amazing and go above and beyond (if you want to dive on Koh Tao, these guys are the one!). Having had aaaalot of rain most days (not that it particularly mattered for me) and still having one of the best weeks travelling yet, I can only imagine how beautiful this island is as it glows in the sun.

After 7 nights, a small group of us decided to catch the night ferry to Surat Thani making the trip to Khao Sok National Park.

But, Koh Tao I'll be back.

UPDATE: I'm currently in Ko Lanta sitting by the beach with a Pad Thai after travelling from Krabi, I sacked off Bangkok, it's makes more sense to finish the South first. - 26.11.2022